ATHENS 2023
At the end of May, I’m off for a 10-day stay in one of the oldest cities in the world: Athens.
Capital of Greece, it was formally founded around 800 BCE through the merging of several villages into a single city, partially spared from the Dorian invasion.
By taking advantage of the natural fortress of the Acropolis, they managed to resist the hordes of raiders that terrorized the region.
According to legend, it was the hero Theseus, slayer of the Minotaur, who led this unification of Attica.
Right now, I’m on the plane, and the flight attendant has just announced a 30-minute delay due to heavy air traffic over Athens.
I’ll later find that the same applies to the roads once I arrive in the city.
From Brussels, the flight takes 2 hours and 20 minutes, plus a one-hour time difference.
Greece does not observe daylight saving time.
If, like me, you don’t speak a word of Greek, rest assured: most Athenians speak English.
Arriving in the late afternoon, I settle in calmly and head out to get a metro pass.
The network covers the city very well, economical and practical, especially since station names are also displayed in a language you can understand, which isn’t the case with other modes of transport.
A 5-day pass will cost you 9 euros.
Metro map available here:
Kolonaki
Unlike many tourists, I didn’t start my stay by visiting the Acropolis, but rather this neighborhood for practical reasons.
Kolonaki is Athens’ upscale district, home to embassies and luxury boutiques, but that’s not all. Several major museums are also located here.
Metro stop: EVANGELISMOS, Line 3.
Museum of Cycladic Art
Founded in 1986 to house the private collection of the Goulandris shipowning family, it focuses on the ancient cultures of the Aegean Sea, particularly that of the Cyclades during the 3rd millennium BCE.
The museum is composed of four levels: the Cycladic collection and its characteristic statues on the first floor; Greek art from the Minoans to the Romans, with its various periods, on the second floor; archaeological remains discovered on the island of Cyprus on the third floor; and reconstructions of scenes from everyday Greek life on the fourth floor, including a video subtitled in English and Greek.
2-Benaki Museum
Originally, the building was the residence of the Harokopos family. It was purchased and renovated by Emmanuel Benakis in 1910. After his death in 1929, the property was converted into a museum by his son, Antónis Benákis, in 1930.
It is the museum of Greek culture.
It tells the story of Greece through artworks and collectible objects, from the 6th millennium BCE to the ancient Greek and Greco-Roman civilizations, the Byzantine Empire, and the founding of the Greek state in the early 19th century.
3-Museum of Byzantine and Christian Art
The collections of the Christian Archaeological Society are at the origin of this museum, founded in 1914.
In 1930, the museum moved into the Ilíssia Villa, built in 1848 for the Duchess of Plaisance, Sophie de Marbois-Lebrun, by Greek architect Stamátios Kleánthis.
The Byzantine and Christian Museum is one of the most important museums in the world dedicated to the art and culture of the Byzantine and post-Byzantine periods.
The collections on display are primarily religious in nature, dating from the 3rd to the 20th century, and originate mainly from the Greek region, Asia Minor, and the Balkans.
4-The Changing of the Guard
They are called “Evzones,” which in Greek means “of the beautiful belt.”
Originally, this name referred to the regiments and battalions of the Greek light infantry.
Their official history began in 1857, when these regiments were created to guard the country’s borders.
Today, the term refers to the members of the Presidential Guard, a ceremonial elite unit that watches over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Syntagma Square and the Presidential Palace in Athens.
Not everyone can be an Evzone…
I attended the changing of the guard in front of the Presidential Palace, but you can also see it in front of the Parliament near Syntagma Square.
Pangràti
Located just south of Kolonaki, the leafy residential neighborhood of Pangrati has become Athens’ new trendy art district, thanks in part to its proximity to the National Garden.
It is in this area that the Goulandris Foundation and the National Gallery have taken up residence.
Easily accessible from Evangelismos metro station.
5-The Goulandris Fundation
This magnificent museum of modern and contemporary art, privately funded and housed in a neoclassical-style building, was inaugurated in 2019.
It holds the private collection of Basil and Elise Goulandris, an art-loving couple who, during their lifetime, supported many artists and amassed a remarkable array of works.
The exhibition is impressive, showcasing pieces by many of the greatest european artists from the late 19th and 20th centuries, as well as works by Greek artists.
6-The National Gallery
Also known as the Alexandros Soutzos Museum (one of its most important benefactors), it is the largest art museum in Greece.
Primarily dedicated to Greek artists, though it does feature some European ones, the museum’s aim is to showcase the evolution of Greece from the post-Byzantine era to the key events and figures of the 1821 revolution against the Ottomans, and the establishment of the modern Greek state.
You can continue your visit in the garden, where modern sculptures are displayed, and enjoy a drink on the terrace.
Renovated in 2021, it is a truly beautiful museum.
Metro stop: Evangelismos, line 3.
7-The Panathenaic Stadium
The ancient stadium was built in 330–329 BCE, an initiative of the Athenian politician Lycurgus, to host athletic competitions during the Great Panathenaic Festival.
It was renovated by Herodes Atticus between 144 and 140 BCE, with marble seating added.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the stadium fell into disuse, and much of its marble was looted.
In 1895, a wealthy entrepreneur funded its complete restoration using white marble (kallos), which earned it the nickname “Kallimarmaro.” This is the name shown on maps of Athens.
The stadium hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.
8-The National Garden
Need a “green escape”?
The National Garden is the perfect spot.
This former royal garden was created in the mid-1800s and declared a public space in 1927.
It’s a truly pleasant place for a stroll.
AcropolIS
9-Acropolis Museum
Four days already in Athens. It’s time to head to the most visited and iconic ancient site: the Acropolis.
Metro station: Acropoli – Line 2.
And the visit begins the moment you step out of the station.
There was a line at the ticket office, but a cash-only counter was available, which allowed me to enter the site quickly.
Admission costs €20 and does not include the museum visit.
As this UNESCO World Heritage site isn’t fully equipped with tourist facilities, be sure to wear sturdy shoes.
The museum
The museum houses objects recovered from the monuments and excavations on the Acropolis: bas-reliefs, statues, and ceramics.
It’s a must-see complement to the ruins.
On the museum’s outdoor forecourt, you’ll find, beneath your feet, the remains of one of the oldest neighborhoods in Athens, dating back to the 5th century BCE.
KERAMEIKOS
Two theories compete regarding the origin of this neighborhood’s name.
According to Herodotus, it comes from the ancient Greek kéramos, meaning “land of the potters.”
For Pausanias, however, the name derives from Ceramos, son of Ariadne and Dionysus.
Less frequented by tourists, it’s nonetheless a place far more interesting to visit than it might seem.
10- Kerameikos museum
Built in 1937 following a donation from Gustav Oberlaender, the museum houses a remarkably well-preserved collection of sculptures, funerary monuments, vases, and accessories.
These artifacts were discovered on-site and date from the 12th century BCE to the Roman period, revealing the oldest necropolis in Athens.
The excavation site is open to visitors and, rest assured, it’s not at all gloomy.
You might even spot turtles that, it seems, have made this place their home.
EXARCHIA
This neighborhood doesn’t make it into the top 10 tourist rankings.
Often seen as a no-go zone, a hub for political activists, and known for episodes of unrest, Exarchia has a reputation that precedes it.
Yet it’s precisely in this area that you’ll find the magnificent National Archaeological Museum.
Metro stop: Victoria – Line 1.
11-The National Archaeological Museum
It is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful museums in Athens.
Spread over 8,000 square meters, it showcases the finest collection of Greek antiquities in the world. For me, it’s an absolute “must-do” in Athens.
From the very start of the visit, I was amazed by the exceptional state of preservation of the artifacts. Plan for at least four hours to take it all in.
You’ll also find antiquities from the Kerameikos site.
The visit is anything but dull, the sheer beauty of the pieces is captivating.
The museum guards were friendly and helpful, which is always a plus.
MONASTIRAKI / PLAKA
Monastiraki is a lively neighborhood, both historic and commercial.
It’s home to the famous flea market, and for shopping, there’s Ermou Street, a bustling 1.5 km-long avenue.
At first glance, this shopping street might resemble those in other European cities, except for one striking detail: a small 11th-century Byzantine church, standing right in the middle of the modern storefronts (see photo below).
CHURCH OF PANAGIA KAPNIKAREA
This little church survived the Turkish firebombing in 1689 and several attempts by urban planners to demolish it in the 19th century.
It’s clearly a miracle it still stands.
Also worth seeing in this neighborhood:
TOwer of the winds
THE ANCIENT AGORA
Very close to Monastiraki, Plaka is a neighborhood bustling with tourists, filled with souvenir shops, charming cafés, and cozy restaurants. Its narrow streets evoke the feel of a small village more than that of a capital city.
in short
Hadrian's Arch
Héphaïstéion
The Temple of Hephaestus in Athens is the best-preserved ancient temple in Greece. It was dedicated to Hephaestus, god of metallurgy, and Athena Ergane, goddess of pottery and craftsmanship.
PIRAEUS
Having explored much of Athens, I’ve still got Piraeus left to visit before heading home.
There are two metro options:
-
Line 1, stop Piraeus, which takes you straight to the port.
-
From there, you can either walk along the coast or switch to Line 3, terminus Dimotikó Théatro, which brings you into the town center.
This station opened in October 2022, so it doesn’t appear on older metro maps (see photo below).
Here are a few photos from my walks.
Great stay in Athens coming to an end.
For all the places I visited, it wasn’t necessary to book online.
Entry tickets may be slightly more expensive than buying on site.
You might need to book if you’re visiting Athens during high season.
Top-notch accommodation and nothing to complain about in all the places I visited.
Aware and proud of its heritage and history, Athens takes good care of its wonders.