ROMA 2024
May 30, 2024
I'm at Brussels National Airport, waiting for my flight to Rome for a ten-day stay. I'm not a fan of those 3-to-5-day trips that many websites suggest — far too short for my taste, considering the historical, architectural, and cultural richness of the Eternal City.
As usual, I want to see as much as possible and break away from the classic tourist path.
Arrival in Rome late in the day.
Still 35 minutes by car before reaching my accommodation in the historic center of Rome.
A bit late to start sightseeing, so I settle in quietly and take a short walk around the neighborhood. There are three bus stops and one tram stop nearby.
Personally, I chose the bus. It’ll take you almost everywhere, unlike the metro, which doesn’t serve the city that well (a new line is currently under construction).
Next to this is a public transport pass valid for 7 days, which you can easily get at newsstands or through the official website.
Also very useful for planning your routes.
There’s also a 48-hour pass available.
If you're staying in the historic center, many sites are within walking distance.
1-Navona Square
This is the first site I’m visiting.
Originally, this square was a stadium built by Emperor Domitian in 86 AD. He introduced a cycle of Greek-style games there: foot races, boxing, javelin throwing, and discus throwing.
By the 5th century, the stadium had fallen into ruins.
It was on these ruins that the square was built, gradually renovated and embellished over the centuries, becoming one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Rome.
A popular spot among visitors, with its restaurants and lively street performances.
On this same square, you can also visit the Church of Saint Agnes in Agone. It was built on the spot where, according to tradition, the saint, exposed naked before the crowd, was miraculously covered by her hair. Construction began in 1652 and was completed in 1657. The church was designed by architects Girolamo and Carlo Rainaldi and later completed by Francesco Borromini.
The Braschi Palace
Palazzo Braschi is a neoclassical palace designed by architect Cosimo Morelli and completed in 1804. Now home to the Museum of Rome, the palace houses a diverse collection including paintings, graphic works, and photographs spanning from the 17th to the 20th century.
On the day of my visit, I saw a temporary exhibition titled UKIYOE – Vision of Japan, focusing specifically on Japanese art from the Edo period. Among the works on display were paintings, scrolls, fans, prints, and traditional Japanese items such as kimonos and musical instruments.
A beautiful exhibition you may not have the chance to see, but know that most of the works on display come from the Oriental Museum of Genoa — so if you happen to be in the area…
This museum regularly hosts temporary exhibitions.
Visit: morning
Booking : no
Waiting time : no
2-The Archaeological Park of the Colosseum
Second day in Rome. The weather is beautiful, so I decide to head to the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum.
At the ticket office, I'm offered a combined ticket that includes the Colosseum, with a choice of entry time. Be careful when selecting your time for the Colosseum, as you won’t be allowed in before the time stated on your ticket.
The combined ticket costs 18 euros.
Visit: morning
Booking : no
Waiting time : no
The Colosseum of Rome, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, was built between 70 and 80 AD under Emperors Vespasian and Titus. It could hold between 50,000 and 80,000 spectators and was used for various public spectacles, such as gladiator fights and wild animal combats.
Although partially in ruins today, mainly due to earthquakes and stone looting, the Colosseum remains a powerful symbol of ancient Rome and a source of inspiration for the world of cinema. Even though the central arena has disappeared, the site is still incredibly impressive.
Visit: afternoon
Booking: yes
Waiting time: depends on the ticket time
3 – The Etruscan Museum
It’s raining this morning in Rome — the only rainy morning of the entire trip.
Today is the first Sunday of the month, which means, as elsewhere, museum entry is free.
Although a bit far from the historic center, less known and therefore less visited, I decide to go to the Etruscan Museum, intrigued by this civilization I had never heard of before.
Located in Villa Giulia, a former papal residence, the museum holds an impressive collection from the Etruscan civilization, including the Sarcophagus of the Spouses and the Apollo of Veii.
The Etruscans were a mysterious people who dominated central Italy before the Romans.
Their origin is uncertain, but some ancient authors linked them to the Lydians, the Pelasgians, or the Tyrrhenians. They were skilled in art, craftsmanship, navigation, medicine, and divination, and left behind many traces in their necropolises. They also played a significant political and military role, ruling over Rome for a century before being driven out by the Romans.
This people is an integral part of Rome’s history.
If you're interested in ancient civilizations, this is a museum not to be missed, it truly deserves more recognition.
Friendly staff, which is always a plus.
Visit: morning
Booking: no
Waiting time : no
4-The Borghese Gallery
After my visit to the Etruscan Museum, I decide to head to the Borghese Gallery, which is nearby.
My review here will be less flattering.
Upon arrival, I’m told that reservation is required, free entry or not.
So I have to join the queue and wait four hours to get in. Other visitors, even Italians, seem just as surprised as I am.
Seriously, who thinks of booking when it’s free?
Since I’m on vacation and unlikely to get a reservation on another day due to the limited number of tickets available, I decide to stay.
Finally, after more than three hours, I get the long-awaited pass.
It’s a beautiful palace with stunning frescoes on the walls and ceilings, numerous sculptures by Bernini, and paintings by Caravaggio.
However, some works are missing (on loan to other museums), and the gallery’s first floor is closed.
A bit disappointing , it leaves you wanting more.
If you don’t manage to book a ticket for this gallery, there are many other wonderful museums in Rome with a warmer welcome.
And if you’re not into art, visit the park instead.
Visit: afternoon
Booking: no (Museum Day) but mandatory in all circumstances.
Waiting time: generally none if booked with a time slot
5-The monuments
The Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi) is the largest and one of the most famous fountains in Rome.
This monument was commissioned by Pope Clement XII and built between 1732 and 1762. It is located on the Piazza di Trevi and is attached to the Palazzo Poli.
Morning visit. Although there were already quite a few people, it wasn’t difficult to get a close look.
The Pantheon of Rome is an ancient religious building located on the Piazza della Rotonda.
Built at the command of Agrippa in the 1st century BC, it was damaged by several fires and completely rebuilt under Hadrian in the early 2nd century, then restored under Septimius Severus in the early 3rd century. Originally, the Pantheon was a temple dedicated to all the deities of the ancient religion. It was converted into a church in the 7th century by Pope Boniface IV and became the Basilica of Saint Mary and the Martyrs.
Morning visit. The monument is imposing and remarkably well preserved given its age.
To visit the interior and admire its unique dome, it will cost you 5 euros.
The Pantheon houses the tombs of Raphael, Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of unified Italy, Umberto I, his son and also king of Italy, and Margherita of Savoy, Umberto I’s wife.
Monument to Victor Emmanuel II
The immense, immaculate white monument was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi and built between 1885 and 1911 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Italian unification. It was erected in honor of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of unified Italy in 1861.
From the top, you can enjoy a beautiful view over Rome.
This imposing structure is visible from afar, especially from the top of the Palatine Hill and Castel Sant’Angelo.
6-The Doria Pamphilj Gallery
First of all, it’s worth noting that this is a private palace, and the stated aim of the heirs is to preserve and restore their historical and cultural heritage, maintaining its period appearance.
This magnificent 16th-century palace is located on Via del Corso and has belonged to the Doria-Pamphilj family since 1647, following the marriage of Olimpia Aldobrandini to Camillo Pamphilj, nephew of Pope Innocent X.
You enter through an inner courtyard.
When presenting my ticket, I’m offered a French audio guide at no extra cost, a rare treat in Rome.
This audio guide adds real value to the visit, as the history of the palace is narrated by a descendant of Pope Innocent X.
He shares how the balls were held in the past, why the throne room’s chair faces the wall, talks about members of his family, and points out unique features of certain paintings.
The art collection and the Hall of Mirrors are truly impressive.
This palace is not to be missed.
Visit: morning
Booking: no
Waiting time: no
7-Castel Sant’Angelo
You reach it via the bridge of the same name. Ten angels and two statues of Saints Peter and Paul accompany you to the entrance.
This castle has a long history: originally intended as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family — hence its other name, Mole Adriana — it later became a fortress to defend Rome and eventually a refuge for popes during times of crisis.
It was later transformed into a palace under Pope Paul III, and at the beginning of the 20th century, it became a state-owned museum.
These successive transformations likely explain its excellent condition today.
Its name was given in memory of Pope Gregory I, who had a vision of the Archangel Michael sheathing his sword atop the Mole Adriana during a procession meant to ward off the plague ravaging Rome.
This vision was interpreted as a sign of the epidemic’s imminent end, which indeed came to pass.
A statue of the Archangel now stands atop the castle.
Enjoy the view.
Visit: 9h30 ( 30 min after opening)
Booking: no
Waiting time: no
8-The Vatican
Believer or not, it’s a must-see in Rome.
Leaving Castel Sant’Angelo, I head toward the Vatican via Lungotevere, hoping to reach Piazza Pia and continue along Via della Conciliazione to St. Peter’s Square.
Unfortunately, Lungotevere is closed due to construction, so you have to follow the detour.
Some parts of this temporary route aren’t very safe for pedestrians, so stay alert.
There’s a lot of construction going on in Rome at the moment.
It’s worth knowing that the city will celebrate its Jubilee in 2025.
St. Peter’s Square is a vast baroque esplanade, commissioned in 1656 by Pope Alexander VII and designed by Bernini to enhance the space in front of the basilica.
The basilica
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, St. Peter’s Basilica is considered the greatest architectural achievement of its time and remains one of the most visited monuments in the world.
Its construction began on April 18, 1506, on the site of the ancient Vatican basilica built under Emperor Constantine I, and was completed in 1626.
Its most renowned architects include Bramante, Michelangelo, Maderno, and Bernini.
I found it gigantic and magnificent.
Inside, you truly feel very small.
Entry to the Basilica is free.
There’s a long queue, due not only to the number of visitors but also to the Vatican’s heightened security measures.
Every visitor must pass through metal detectors, and bags are inspected by the Vatican gendarmerie.
Although many websites offer skip-the-line tickets for the Basilica, they don’t guarantee immediate entry — so they’re not particularly useful.
Visiting in the late afternoon, I only waited 35 minutes, which is quite short considering the number of visitors.
The museum
It’s a whole different story for the museum.
The key word is: reservation.
I’m sharing here the Vatican Museums calendar that I found on the official website
Personally, I was able to buy a skip-the-line ticket from a shop located on St. Peter’s Square, thanks to a suggestion from a tourism professional — a bit by chance, and I don’t regret it at all given the impeccable service.
The meeting with the guide was set for 1:30 p.m. in front of the shop.
When the time came, he handed me my ticket and walked me to the museum (a 10-minute walk).
I saw there was a queue, but my guide assured me it would be no more than 15 minutes — due to security checks. He left me only once I had entered the museum, and there I was, starting a visit I hadn’t even planned.
It’s not a must-see for nothing.
The gallery shown here represents only a tiny fraction of what there is to discover, the collection is vast, not to mention the stunning frescoes on the walls and ceilings.
Everything is impressive: the Gallery of Maps, the Raphael Rooms, and the Sistine Chapel , of which you won’t find any photos here, as both photography and video recording are strictly forbidden.
Guards in the room ensure that this rule is respected.
Visit: 14h00
Booking: yes
Waiting time: 15 min
9-Baths of Caracalla
Also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, these baths were built at the request of Emperor Caracalla (Marcus Aurelius) between 212 and 216 AD. They were inaugurated in 216, just one year before Caracalla’s assassination.
Unfortunately, activity ceased in 537 following the siege by Vitiges, king of the Goths, and the destruction of the city’s aqueducts.
Located at the foot of the Aventine Hill in southern Rome, the baths could accommodate up to 1,600 people.
Although the site lies in ruins after centuries of war and looting, the visit remains truly fascinating for discovering the history and architecture of that glorious era.
Since the site is located within a park, take advantage of the lovely walk, especially on a sunny day.
Visit: morning
Booking: no
Waiting time: no
10-Barberini Palace
Built in the 17th century, the Barberini Palace now houses the National Gallery of Ancient Art. This gallery is renowned for its impressive collections, featuring works by masters such as Caravaggio, Bernini, and others.
Here you’ll find pieces that are missing from the Borghese Gallery.
Large rooms showcase the many artworks, some of which are quite sizable, in a palace that’s not overly decorated, allowing the pieces to stand out.
The staff is friendly and helpful.
Bags must be left in lockers for a 1-euro deposit, which you get back when you leave.
Visit: morning
Booking: no
Waiting time: no
11-Baths of Diocletian
Construction of the Baths of Diocletian began in 298 AD under Emperor Maximian Herculeus, who ruled jointly with Diocletian. The work was completed in 306 AD, shortly after Diocletian’s abdication, amid accusations that he was responsible for the deaths of thousands of Christians who had worked as slaves during the construction.
They were built to be the largest and most impressive baths in Rome, even surpassing the famous Baths of Caracalla. Designed to accommodate up to 3,000 people at once, they offered a variety of bathing and leisure spaces, including hot baths, warm baths, cold baths, gymnasiums, libraries, and gardens.
Today, part of the baths houses the National Roman Museum.
Although located in the heart of the city, this timeless place is peaceful and relaxing — and on hot days, you’ll appreciate the coolness under the arcades while admiring the gardens.
Visit: morning
Booking: no
Waiting time: no
12-Capitoline Museum
This is a museum not to be missed.
The origins of the Capitoline Museum date back to 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV donated a group of bronze statues of great symbolic value to the people of Rome. The collections are closely tied to the city itself, with most of the works originating from Rome. The exhibits span a period from the Roman Empire to the Renaissance. The museum consists of two buildings connected by an underground gallery.
Be sure to take it, it’s essential to see the full collection.
Museum staff are available to assist you if needed.
Visit: afternoon
Booking: no
Waiting time: no
13-Basilica St Mary Major
The Basilica of Saint Mary Major is one of the four major basilicas in Rome and stands as an important historical and religious monument. It is located on Piazza dell’Esquilino, at the summit of the Esquiline Hill.
The basilica is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and houses the revered icon of the Salus Populi Romani.
While Saint Peter’s Basilica struck me with its sheer immensity, here it’s the opulence of the decor that stands out, gold embellishments wherever you look, along with stunning mosaics.
Truly, this golden-clad basilica is well worth the visit.
When faith and devotion transcend art…
Visit: afternoon
Booking: no - free entry
Waiting time: no
My stay is coming to an end, and I’ll be heading home tomorrow.
I believe I’ve seen as much as possible, but I still have a bit of time for one last visit.
And what a pleasant surprise, this museum dedicated to ancient sculptures!
It allowed me to discover a truly high-quality collection.
14-The Barracco Museum
Visit: afternoon
Booking: no - free entry
Waiting time: no
In short
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As you may have noticed throughout this travelogue, it’s not always necessary to book in advance for everything.
However, you should consider certain factors, such as the time of day you visit and the day of the week, for example, the first Sunday of the month is free, and weekends generally attract more visitors.
As for me, it was a pleasant and sunny stay.
I was able to visit all the places I had hoped to, and even more, so I’d call it a successful trip.
A bit more pedestrian space in the historic center would have been ideal, but that’s just my gentle dream as a walker…